Photo Editing Tip: Soft Light Contrast Boost
As I continue to tweak my Faux Polaroid Photoshop action — as well as my image blasting tutorial — I thought I'd take a second to show a photo editing tip I've been using for quite a while: my alternative contrast boost. Let's get some minor definitions/understanding out of the way first...
Contrast is defined, essentially — and for our purposes — as the distance between extremes of pure black and pure white. Establishing those extremes makes sure we see black instead of dark grey, and white instead of light grey. Much like setting and image's Levels, Contrast can do the same — but at a cost. This cost is loss of image data, so you should ALWAYS use Curves or Levels to set black and white points. As to why using Contrast results in image data loss, it's because the adjustment is linear, meaning it adjusts every pixel. Curves and Levels adjust proportionally (non-liniear) based on image gamma.
So why bother with contrast at all? For effect, of course.
If you've followed my photos for any length of time, you know I'm a sucker for highly saturated and high contrast images. In my workflow, I do all my balancing and level tweaks, and then I focus on what "tone" I want the image to have — and I usually establish a tone with how much contrast I want the image to have (I also use the terms "definition" and "richness" interchangeably with "tone," if that makes things more clear).
Let's look at a sample shot to visually explain what I'm getting at. Note that these thumbnails don't really render the differences, so load the full size images and you can really see the changes (if you're using Safari, load the pics into tabs and you can quickly sap between them).
Here's the same shot with my Soft Light contrast boost:
To make this simple yet effective change, just duplicate your source layer and set its blending mode to Soft Light — then adjust that layer's opacity to get the amount of contrast boost you like. In my sample image (again, load the full image to really see the effect), I have the Soft Light layer set at just 50% opacity.
As to why I prefer this method to add contrast, it's all about how the Soft Light blending mode does its math. What it does is take any pixels lighter than 50% grey and lighten them, and then take any pixels darker than 50% grey and darken them. So, depending on your source image, you can add a subtle contrast boost or totally blow the highs and muddy the lows — all depending on what feel you're trying to achieve. A simple contrast control, on the other hand, would apply changes across the whole image equally, which wouldn't boost just highs and lows.
And that's it. Do all your main post processing like you should be doing: white balance, exposure compensation, levels/curves, saturation, etc., then give the above technique a try at the end of your workflow. This method works really well on bright, outside images, and it take a simple, "just fine" picture and really make it pop with more vibrancy. Or, you can really crank it up and make a nice and gritty image out of something boring. Experimentation is key.
Just for kicks, here's another before and after example with the Soft Light at 80% opacity to really saturate the colors:
Contrast is defined, essentially — and for our purposes — as the distance between extremes of pure black and pure white. Establishing those extremes makes sure we see black instead of dark grey, and white instead of light grey. Much like setting and image's Levels, Contrast can do the same — but at a cost. This cost is loss of image data, so you should ALWAYS use Curves or Levels to set black and white points. As to why using Contrast results in image data loss, it's because the adjustment is linear, meaning it adjusts every pixel. Curves and Levels adjust proportionally (non-liniear) based on image gamma.
So why bother with contrast at all? For effect, of course.
If you've followed my photos for any length of time, you know I'm a sucker for highly saturated and high contrast images. In my workflow, I do all my balancing and level tweaks, and then I focus on what "tone" I want the image to have — and I usually establish a tone with how much contrast I want the image to have (I also use the terms "definition" and "richness" interchangeably with "tone," if that makes things more clear).
Let's look at a sample shot to visually explain what I'm getting at. Note that these thumbnails don't really render the differences, so load the full size images and you can really see the changes (if you're using Safari, load the pics into tabs and you can quickly sap between them).
Here's the same shot with my Soft Light contrast boost:
To make this simple yet effective change, just duplicate your source layer and set its blending mode to Soft Light — then adjust that layer's opacity to get the amount of contrast boost you like. In my sample image (again, load the full image to really see the effect), I have the Soft Light layer set at just 50% opacity.
As to why I prefer this method to add contrast, it's all about how the Soft Light blending mode does its math. What it does is take any pixels lighter than 50% grey and lighten them, and then take any pixels darker than 50% grey and darken them. So, depending on your source image, you can add a subtle contrast boost or totally blow the highs and muddy the lows — all depending on what feel you're trying to achieve. A simple contrast control, on the other hand, would apply changes across the whole image equally, which wouldn't boost just highs and lows.
And that's it. Do all your main post processing like you should be doing: white balance, exposure compensation, levels/curves, saturation, etc., then give the above technique a try at the end of your workflow. This method works really well on bright, outside images, and it take a simple, "just fine" picture and really make it pop with more vibrancy. Or, you can really crank it up and make a nice and gritty image out of something boring. Experimentation is key.
Just for kicks, here's another before and after example with the Soft Light at 80% opacity to really saturate the colors:
posted by Maury @ 1:50 PM Permalink | 2 comments so far 
2 Comments:
Nice tutorial. I've been working with b/w photos to get the ink-y blacks a la Scott Mutter or Ansel Adams.
That's another one I'm working on (massive black and white). =)
Part of that method of mine is to use this Soft Light contrast boost, then convert to black and white. This looks awesome on a portrait, too, if the person has any freckles or lines. If they do, it really makes them jump out -- if that's what you're going for in the image.
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